A Historic Relic that Continues to Stand the Test of Time
JOPLIN, MO. – Wilder’s Steakhouse, located on historic Main Street in downtown Joplin, Missouri, hosts one of the oldest buildings in the southwest corner of the state, which was erected in 1908. Mike and Marsha Pawlus purchased Wilder’s Steakhouse in 1996. The restaurant was originally owned by Vern Wilder in 1929, making it four years shy of a centennial celebration. In 1945, the restaurant underwent a large expansion, where banquet rooms were added, mahogany booths were installed in the main dining area and an art deco bar, which still exists today. This renovation cost $50,000 in the 1940s. Vern Wilder owned Wilder’s until 1975, when it was sold to the Bergraff family, who then owned Wilder’s for around 21 years.
The Bergraff’s, formerly involved in the tire business, owned Wilder’s between the original owner, Vern Wilder, and the present owners, the Pawlus Family. At this mid-point in the life of the noteworthy restaurant, the Bergraff’s ran the establishment as a casual bar and grill, contrary to the original owner who employed two top chefs, a sous chef, along with a manager, which were all required to wear a coat and tie for a sharp formal appearance. The Bergraff’s served hamburgers and breakfast food, translating to a downtown café, adorned with metal road signs covering the walls of Wilder’s that once displayed fancy wallpaper, portraits, and historic photographs.
When the Pawlus’ took over ownership and running of the famous restaurant in 1996, they had some big ideas. Ten-year owners of The Kitchen Pass, Mike and Marsha Pawlus wanted to transform Wilder’s back to her original glory days as an upscale steak house and formal downtown restaurant, operating from 5:00 – 9:00 p.m. each evening. “I wanted to rival the fine dining experiences I had in places like New York and Kansas City, but on a high society Joplin scale”, said Marsha Pawlus. Her husband, Mike Pawlus, had plenty of prior experience in the restaurant world. His early positions as cook, bartender, and waiter shaped his interest and knowledge of the restaurant industry. His original roles evolved, and he and his wife came to be the owners of The Kitchen Pass, a popular restaurant known for music, bar food, dancing, and an all-around good time in the heart of Joplin’s historic district.
The Pawlus’ decided to purchase Wilder’s while current owners of The Kitchen Pass. They were anxious about what unknown neighbors might move next to them and what would become of the historic Wilder’s restaurant. They worked with the Bergraff’s on the purchase. When Mr. Pawlus met with Mr. Bergraff to hand over the keys to the historic establishment (which was unbeknownst to the common public), a few hours later on that same day, he opened his daily newspaper to an article in The Joplin Globe, referencing Vern Wilder’s $150,000 renovation/expansion project 50 years prior. The Pawlus’ took this as a sign that they were destined to be the new owners of Wilder’s Steakhouse.
The family worked to transform the restaurant from an everyday café to the downtown jewel it is today. They removed the metal signs, tore out the drop-in ceilings to expose the original metal ceilings, and saved the structural and artistic integrity of the original restaurant. The couple added tinwork to the walls that were damaged, painted and cleaned the original wood, repaired the ceiling, installed custom built round booths, and enlarged the banquet room. They only had the south room to work with when they acquired the space in 1996. At that time the décor was red and gold vinyl with button stools at the bar, where the office is now located.
“It is never over when owning an old building. We are always adding on; we just did a remodel of the new banquet room and have future hopes to update the front of the building. We also hope to update the parking lot and alley behind the restaurant”, Mike Pawlus, owner of Wilder’s Steakhouse. He went on to share: “The bottom line is that we are still learning how to run this type of business. We learned a lot from running The Kitchen Pass, but feel Wilder’s is more of a retirement plan as we hope to work as long as possible”. Mrs. Pawlus further shared: “The Joplin community has always carried a torch for Wilder’s, we feel an obligation to do our best and preserve this valuable piece of history”.
Marsha Pawlus grew up in the Joplin area. She recalls coming to Joplin as a child, eating at local hot spots such as Fred and Reds, pizza and BBQ restaurants. She remembers cruising and drag racing on Maine Street in her teens. Marsha’s family owned a farm and while she grew up in the area, she never dined at Wilder’s fine foods. “Wilder’s always had a fancy air, you could tell from the sign alone, it felt like ‘somewhere’”. Her first time dining at Wilder’s was with Mike, as they were invited to a friend’s wedding rehearsal. Mr. Pawlus agreed that he did not have the honor of dining at Wilder’s as a child, though he does remember a breakfast banquet in high school being held at the fancy locale he now owns.
Mrs. Pawlus had no prior restaurant experience. Cathy Bartlett, the owners’ daughter and Wilder’s manager, spoke in awe of the way her mother threw herself into restaurant owner and manager mode. “She jumped right in and figured things out; it was quite astounding to witness. I am proud of the way she handled the transition”, said Bartlett. Marsha recalls researching online, acquiring classic menu covers, and focusing on the details when her family took over ownership of the popular downtown restaurant. “We wanted to concentrate on the details and for everything to be positive, uplifting, and nostalgic for our customers”, said Marsha Pawlus.
The Pawlus’ daughter, Cathy Bartlett, displays a true passion for the restaurant business. She manages the daily operations and offers a personal touch to Wilder’s Steakhouse. Cathy, along with her parents, adore so many things about owning this downtown gem. They spoke of how they enjoy meeting each person that comes through the door to dine at Wilder’s. They love the stories of the past they often hear, about coming to Wilder’s as a child with parents and grandparents or celebrating momentous occasions in one’s youth. “We have done something that pleases people”, said Marsha Paulus. She went on to share: “It is a huge responsibility, being the guardians of Joplin history”.
That very history is present on the walls of this local establishment. Each booth in the main dining room hosts a plaque of a long-time Wilder’s Steakhouse patron. When a regular wishes to dine at the restaurant, they prefer to sit at their designated table, occasionally requiring the hostess to bump reservations and provide the proper attention to those long-time customers turned family members who wish to enjoy a Wilder’s-inspired evening out.
The Pawlus’ shared that nothing on the menu has changed in 5-6 years of service. Straight-edge focus on the one thing they do well has successfully allowed for the product to be perfected over the years. The family feels that staying within the niche of their historic menu and classic atmosphere has been key to the longevity and popularity of this downtown Joplin jewel, allowing Wilder’s to stand out as “The best steakhouse in southwest Missouri”.
What pairs better with a juicy cut of steak than fine wine? While the restaurant offers a full-service bar, complete with bartenders that possess finely tuned knowledge of specialty cocktails, the family employs regular purveyors to offer a vast wine selection. Ninety percent of the wine is purchased through a specialty wine company, which features premium wine selections from California and Washington, as well as traditional European options. They will, on occasion, provide wine from a smaller vineyard, just to keep the selection fresh and classy.
Diana Rose, Kitchen Coordinator, worked for the family at Kitchen Pass for closer to 20 years and now runs the kitchen at Wilder’s Steakhouse. Cathy Bartlett, Manager of Wilder’s stated: “The kitchen runs so well and is exceptionally organized. Diana has truly made running the kitchen efficient over the years”. The family collectively feels that maintaining the simplicity and integrity of the traditional menu best allows the kitchen and wait staff to be proficient in what and how they serve. By way of sticking with what they know, perfecting their delicious meals over time, and not re-inventing the wheel (or steak, as the case may be).
Wilder’s Steakhouse has been featured on KSN and the Carol Parker Show. In addition, The Joplin Globe covered a story on the locally famous steakhouse. The Pawlus’ do not push advertising or social media. That is the beauty of a traditional and historic restaurant like Wilder’s, the generations of clientele speak for the popularity and elegance of the place and everyone within Joplin and surrounding areas knows exactly where Wilder’s is located, what they serve, and that a reservation is strongly recommended as it fills quickly, particularly on the weekend. “Wilder’s continues to stay busy. If people enjoy their experience, they will tell others, sharing that magical, nostalgic experience with people they know and love. That is all the advertising we need”, said Marsha Pawlus, owner of Wilder’s Steakhouse.
The restaurant has hosted several celebrity visits, including the film crew for Seven Houses in Seven Days, the construction television series that landed in Joplin after the tornado of May 2011. During that time, the restaurant stayed open late, the housing designers would arrive for a good meal at the end of a long day of designing and filming. They enjoyed visiting with the owners and employees. Celebrity Chef, Robert Irvine of the popular show, Restaurant Impossible, was a one-time visitor.
Six years ago, Former President Bill Clinton utilized a grant through the National Parks Association to earmark a neon sign project for businesses along Route 66. Wilder’s Steakhouse was selected for the project and the government allowed nearly $50,000 to upgrade the original neon sign, which famously sits atop the restaurant. The unveiling of the new sign produced quite a splash. Special Christmas ornaments were made and tickets were sold for a cocktail party and celebration dinner.
The Pawlus Family, owners, Mike and Marsha, and their daughter, Cathy, shared some amazing tales about the history of Wilder’s Steakhouse. While a few of the present staff argue that Mr. Wilder haunts his beloved establishment, evidenced by moving bottles, slamming doors and other bizarre phenomena, the family has personally indicated no otherworldly experiences. Mrs. Pawlus shared that a paranormal society requested to visit Wilder’s but would not allow the owners to be present, so their request was denied. Truth being stranger than fiction, the note-worthy antics of the Wilder’s Steakhouse namesake, are quite comical and unbelievably entertaining.
Many years ago (more information can be found in a Joplin Globe news article), Vern Wilder hosted a gentleman’s gambling club in the upper rooms of Wilder’s Restaurant. At the time, the Kansas City mob was in full swing and apparently felt that Mr. Wilder was encroaching on their gambling proteges. Tensions were heightened between the Kansas City and Joplin gambling clubs and one night, a car drove by the restaurant and launched a dynamite bomb at the roof of Wilder’s. The intent was to target Vern Wilder. However, the explosion, unfortunately, landed on an innocent accountant, who perished from the severe injuries he suffered from the violent act.
In addition to his interest in gambling, Mr. Wilder was an alleged bootlegger, arranging for liquor (during a time of prohibition) to be transported to Kansas, Arkansas and Oklahoma. He was also an avid big game hunter. Clearly, Vern Wilder had many passions, his namesake restaurant, gambling, illegal liquor sales, and hobby hunting.
A man of great character with a large personality, the dining room of Wilder’s Steakhouse showcases a large portrait of Mr. Wilder. One can barely make out a figure standing next to him in the painting. Turns out, the figure, now professionally painted out of the portrait, was his ex-wife, whom he did not wish to present to his dining, gambling and bootlegging audience after they divorced.
From the classic black-and-white photos of long-time customers on the walls of each booth, to the wild west adventures of the restaurant’s namesake, Vern Wilder, to the mouth-watering, perfectly cooked steak and all accompaniments, The Wilder’s Steakhouse tagline, “Famous for good things to eat and drink.”, for which Vern Wilder was a local celebrity, truly imbibes the atmosphere of this historic downtown gem. One feels, upon walking in the back door of Wilder’s, that you have escaped modern society and entered a nostalgic, historic, high-society 1940s era of delicious food and exceptional drinks, classic lighting and a beautiful atmosphere, coupled with dear friends turned family. Wilder’s Steakhouse is more than just a fancy place for dinner on a Saturday night. It is truly an experience. And one, quite obviously, due to its longevity, Joplin patrons and visitors from all over the country, truly adore.
